Please note that our series on Festoon Blinds is currently being updated to reflect the use of new techniques and materials. This article still contains excellent information, but some of it may be changed as a result of our review.

Check back here soon for the updated articles. Meanwhile, if you need any advice on materials for your projects, call us on 0208 331 4383.

MAKING THE BLIND

STAGE ONE

To Make the Right Hand Frill

Lay the fabric face down and fold the fabric over 7" in from edge and crease.  Fold the fabric back to its flat position and fold over ½" of fabric and crease again. Leave the ½" of fabric folded and machine stitch all the way down the length IN THE CENTRE OF THE ½" FOLD.  This stitches down the fold.  Take a length of 1.4mm cord (8" longer than the drop and insert it into the fold very tight against the stitching).  Now turn over 3" of the fabric to the first fold and keeping the cord very tight against the stitching, make a second row of stitching down the length of the fabric so that the cord is in a 'tunnel' and the turnover is stitched to the blind.  There should now be a row of stitching down the face of the blind, a turnover of approximately 3 ¼" at the back of the blind and the length of cord trapped in the small fold and now about 3" in from the edge.  When the cords are pulled up later on, this will form the RIGHT HAND FRILL of the blind.  The operation will be made easier if a zipper foot is used.

Repeat this process on the right hand side of the final width of fabric being used, and that will make the LEFT HAND FRILL of the blind.

Both side hems with side frills are now completed and have approximately 6" of cord protruding.  IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO NOW ENSURE THAT THE CORDS ARE SECURELY FASTENED AT THE BASE OF THE BLIND.  Join the widths of fabric being used together.

It is now necessary to insert further 'ruching' cords across the width of the blind.  Cord will of course be incorporated into the seams if there is to be more than one width of fabric used, and then into the centre of each width i.e. the centres between seams or between a frill and a seam. 

Proceed as follows:- 

Lay down the fabric RIGHT side up and find the centre of each width.  Fold over and crease the centres.  Lay a length of cord into the crease.  Fold the fabric back over the cord and stitch down the crease as close as possible to the cord and trapping the cord inside its 'tunnel'.  Only one row of stitching will be necessary.  Unfold the fabric and the cord will be hidden and the stitching will not be seen.

Repeat the process on any other widths of fabric, and then as these are joined together incorporate a further cord into each joining seam.  Obviously, if half of a width is being used it will not be corded in its centre.  At this stage the blind fabric should be approximately twice as wide and from three-quarters to twice as long as required.  The 'ruching' cords will be at approximately 2 foot centres across the blind.

Attach the bottom frill, made up from 7" strips of fabric, contrasted if so desired, and of double the width of the laid out flat blind. Fold the strips in half  to3 ½" and with the ½" incorporated into the bottom of the blind, using a flat fell seam a three inch frill will result.

Now attach quick release rings to each row of cords at about 3"up from the frill.  Take care not to stitch into the cord and make sure the ring is really secure.  Then at 12" intervals above the quick release rings attach a small clear ring to the cord 'tunnels' to within 12" from the top of the blind.  DO NOT STITCH INTO THE CORDS WHICH MUST BE FREE IN THEIR 'TUNNELS'.

Sew on the pencil pleat heading tape. Then using a bodkin or darning needle bring each end of the protruding cords out through the middle of the heading tape as the heading tape is being attached to the blind.  Jump stitch over the cord so that it is not caught by the stitching.