STAGE THREE

Assembly

Cut the 1 ¼" X ¾" (3x2cm) batten to the length required. It can be painted, colour varnished or covered in fabric.  However, the most favoured method is to use two coats of colour varnish, which will give a good surface, easy to keep clean and free from dust. 

Drill holes in your batten for fixing at this stage.

Draw up the heading tape cords, and arrange the pleats evenly across the desired width and LOOSELY tie off the cords.  DO NOT CUT OFF THE SURPLUS CORDS as they allow the blind to be pulled out flat for cleaning.  Loose cords should be wound neatly and tucked out of sight into a fold at the back of the heading tape.  One or two stitches will keep it in place.

Preparing the batten

Pull up the  touch and close pencil pleat heading tape into neat pencil pleats.  Fix a strip of adhesive backed Hook or Mushroom to the face of the batten and place the blind on to it.  The touch and close heading tape attached to the blind will cling strongly to the 'mushroom' or 'hook' on the adhesive tape which should be stapled to the batten at 6" (15cm) intervals. 

The Cord Guides

Lay the blind with its batten attached face down.  Immediately above each vertical row of rings attach a single porcelain cord guide with a single screw hole to the underside of the batten.  At the cord end attach a double porcelain cord guide which has two screw holes enabling it to take any strain during the operation of the blind.  Screw eyes can be used satisfactorily.

Cording The Blind

Thread cord of 1.2mm thickness through the Quick Release Ring and up through each line of clear rings and then through the porcelain cord guides or screw eyes to whichever side of the blind will have the pull cord.  Allow 12" (30cm) of cord to hang down past the end double porcelain cord guide.  Tackle one row at a time.  2" (5cm) below the Quick Release Ring cut the cord, knot it once and pull the knot up into the keyhole slot of the quick release ring.  When all the cords are in place, pass the hanging cords into the rounded end of the smallest part of the Cord Connector and knot.

FIX ING THE BATTEN INTO RECESS OR ONTO WALL.

Pull the blind heading away from the batten.  When the batten is in place re-attach the blind heading to the batten.

The use of a Cord Connector is important.  The Connector which unscrews (note the Acorn does not) will hide away all ugly knot ends and it will ensure that the blind will always drop and stop in the correct position.   Cord Connectors  and matching Acorns are available in 'Bronze', 'Chrome', 'Pewter', 'Stainless Steel', 'Gold', 'Matt Gold', 'Black', 'White', and 'Cream' finishes as are wall cleats.

ADJUSTING THE BLIND

With the cord connector above your hand, pull all the cords together to raise the blind about a foot above the required position.  If the resulting ruche (folds) in the blind is not hanging evenly, pull down on those which are too high allowing the cord affected to slip through your hand until you are satisfied with the result. 

Check the blind at the required height. 

Now keep a tight grip on all the cords and push the cord connector up to the end double porcelain cord guide.  Maintain your grip on the cords and tie the cords into a knot by the cord connector.  When secure let the end of the cord connector go up to the double porcelain cord guide and check that the blind is now level as you require it.  If not re-adjust the cords and re-knot.  When satisfied, the cords can be cut off as close as possible to the knot.  Pass a 2.2mm piece of cord into the body of the cord connector and tie a knot.  Take the other end of the thick cord and pass it through the body of the acorn and knot the cord.  Join the two parts of the cord connector together.

STAGE FOUR

The final step is most important and it concerns the dressing of the blind.  It cannot be over-emphasised that time will need to be spent on training the folds of the blind for a few minutes each day for several days.  Start at one side and work across from ruche to ruche, putting and pulling each one into its natural fold.

Separate packs of individual items described in this text are available.  The next page is a quantity chart setting out the number / quantities of items needed for the finished width and drop required.

Adding frills, piping or edging will also enhance the appearance of a blind. Whenever possible an Austrian Blind should be lined so that it will hang better and look better than an unlined blind.