What you will need

FABRIC AND LINING

Allow twice the width of the proposed width of your blind. Add an extra 18 inches (45cm) to the drop of each length of fabric for the ruching and hems. Remember to calculate and allow for pattern repeats in the fabric, if any. 

SPECIMEN CALCULATION

The drop required including hems is 84" (213cm). 4 widths of fabric are needed. The fabric pattern repeat is 50cm. Divide the drop of 213cm by the repeat of 50cm and round up answer to the next whole number, i.e. 5.  Repeat of 50cm x 5 = 2.5m. Multiply by the 4 drops = 10 metres required.

For a frill at the bottom of the blind only, add 14" (35cm) to each length. For a frill all round add one extra length.Lining requirements are the same as for fabric of the blind except that there is no need to allow any lining for frilling or pattern repeat. Buy the same width of lining as the fabric. For piping, to be cut on the cross, allow 54" (137cm) of fabric for a medium size blind. 

OTHER REQUIREMENTS

2.5" (64mm) pencil pleat Touch and Close heading tape  

20mm adhesive backed hook (other half). 

Clear rings

Quick release rings . 

Blind cord 1.2mm thickness . Coloured cords to match coloured linings are available. Because there will be a pull cord at approximately 12" (30cm) intervals across the width of a blind there is no need for any thicker cord on very wide or heavy blinds.

Cord connector on 2.2mm cord with Acorn  in bronze, black, cream, gold, chrome, pewter, stainless steel, white or matt gold finish.

Porcelain cord guides  or screw eyes. Blinds will operate much more easily with porcelain cord guides.

Wall cleat  in finish to match Acorns (supplied with screws).

The whole of the Pretty Frills range is available to purchase on this website. A selection of our products is also available at John Lewis and Dunelm stores. You can find the John Lewis store locator here . The Dunelm store locator is here . 

MAKING AN AUSTRIAN BLIND -STAGE ONE

Make up the fabric to approximately twice the finished blind width and 16" (40cm) longer than the blind drop. Make an allowance for seams and hems and pattern matching. It is perfectly acceptable to use one half widths.

Seams

Use an 'open seam' if the blind is to be lined, or a 'flat fell' seam if not. Nets require a french seam. Remember to cut off selvedges (on lightweight fabric the lettering can show through) and to snip any surplus fabric at the seams to avoid puckering.

Always press the fabric, especially the seams, and take the fold creases out of linings. 

Mark the tops of the drops of linings, otherwise there is a risk that a drop will be sewn incorrectly and show up as a different shade.

Pretty Frills

Add frills and piping or edging, and round the bottom corners at this stage and then attach the lining to the fabric. If a frill is to be added this will have to be sewn in when the lining is attached. The lining should be approximately 6cm narrower than the fabric width when there are no frills so that fabric will return for about 3cm at the back of the blind.

For frills, cut strips of fabric approximately 18cm wide. Join the strips together so that the finished length wil be either twice the measurements of the bottom of the blind when fully laid out and if the sides are also to be frilled, also make up enough frilling for twice the drop of both sides added. Fold the joined strips in half lengthwise right side out and work two rows of gathering stitch. Pull up equally into gathers of desired length and then sew to the blind.

PIPING or EDGING or a SECOND FRILL will enhance a blind if made in a contrast colour. Piping can be made up from straight strips of fabric but is infinitely better if cut on the cross.

A BOTTOM FRILL only is normal if the blind is fitted inside a window recess and especially so if it complemented with curtains.